Pizza is one of my all-time comfort foods and nobody in the world does it like its creators. Napolitan pizza trumps all other pizza variations for me because Neapolitans put nothing else above a perfectly baked pie with only the best mozzarella and San Marzano ingredients. You always hear that the Margherita is indicative of how good a pizzaiolo is, but I’ve never truly understood this until my pizza odyssey in Naples. I’ve been well aware for quite some time now about the rules set by the Associazone Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN) on what constitutes the authenticity of a Neapolitan pizza, but it’s one thing to read about it and another to sink your teeth into the pizzas made by the masters of this art.
This article became a great guide for me while I ate my way through Naples. And although I arrived at a different conclusion on where the best pizza was served, the article expertly describes what constitutes a true Neapolitan pizza and why the best pizzerias in Naples are crowned accordingly.
The pizzerias that I visited:
- Umberto Ristorante e Pizzeria
- Gino Sorbillo
- Frigitorria di Matteo
- Starita
- Da Michelle
- Gino Sorbillo (i had to go back)
No surprise which one I thought was best from the list above.
Notes
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Sorbillo’s – had a pizza Antonio (margerrita with anchovies) and a house red for 7€. Steal of the century. Good bubbles throughout the crust and with micro bubbles approaching the center too. This meant paper thin base that rose enough on the crust to give it a fluffy inside yet crispy outside. Nice leopard colour front and back giving it that smokey interplay with the dough. Good amount of cheese and tomato making it lovely and creamy, although the mozzarella was a bit on the stretchy side in comparison to La Michelle. Wondering why this was so I investigated on this and discovered that La Michelle uses fior di latte (the original version made from cows milk) and Sorbillo uses buffalo di mozzarella. I personally preferred the softness and creaminess of the fior di latte.
My second visit to Sorbillo was to try their Marinara, the second of Naples’ two basic pizzas. Delicious but without the mozzarella it just fell a bit short for me!
Antonio Starita – the Montanarine (deep fried pizza. Tomato, cheese) was delicious! Lovely puff topped with a splash of tomato and a sprinkle of provolone cheese. Also had the Margarita (olive oil, Romano mozzarella cheese and fresh basil). Very nice and crunchy crust. Quite a Soupy center… Maybe a bit too soupy for me. Also I think it was a either bit over baked or over kneaded. The dough was more tough than true Neapolitan standards (especially when compared to Sorbillo or Da Michelle). It almost needed the soupy center to soften it up. I didn’t get this feeling at Sorbillo’s. Of all the pizzas I ate, this felt the heaviest after finishing the whole pie. Motanarine with margarita and a glass of red wine for 10 euros. Still Not a bad investment.
La Michelle – Margarita (made with fior di latte cheese and sunflower oil). The wait wasn’t too bad. I got my number at 1:30 in the afternoon and we were seated at 2:05 I think. I was with a local and he recommended to order the marghertita with extra mozzarella cheese. Good thing he was there as this was good advise. The Base was blanket soft and light… The way it should be. Nothing like the pizza I had at the famous Starita only 2 hours earlier. Very nice creamy cheese. Well baked (they bake it for only 60 seconds at La Michelle’s at 900 degrees). For all at was going right with the pizza though, I knew I liked Sorbillo’s better. I think the crust had a bit more texture at Sorbillo’s, giving it that nice play between the blanket soft center and well baked outside. In any case, I would say they are both neck and neck. Margarita with extra mozzarella and a beer for 7 pounds.
With prices like these for pizzas that taste so good why eat anything else in Naples?